Monday, September 20, 2010
siroky dul, czech republic july 13
I woke up to the sounds of farm animals. Not always sure where I am for a moment and then quickly realize...staying with my extended family in a village where my grandma's family is from. When I went downstairs Anna, Alena and Jitka were all smiles and wanting to know if my bandaged thigh was any better - scalding tea burn in Ireland that was tended to the night before. We had breakfast (green tea, fresh rolls, ham, cheese, cut up fruit and bits of wedding cake that is made when someone in the village marries). We set off for Litomysl - the mom told me to leave my wash - sweet! It was already in the 90s and sticky hot. We walked the grounds of the monastery and castle - gorgeous - clean and unique areas with a spot in the "shadow" for cold drinks. We walked through town and then headed down the road...we were the only car on the road as we sped past fields as far as the eye could see. Soon we reached Politchka the largest town in the area. We had lunch at a cafe that had a funky feel and could have been anywhere on the west coast of California only I couldn't understand the menu or the waitress :) thank goodness for my cousins! The potato pancakes with bleu cheese were great - so much of the food here is pork or potato based. 406 crowns for the 3 of us which is the equivalent of about $20 - how I love it here! We walked through the park seeking out shadows which is what Jitka calls the shade and I think is so cute, saw the schools the girls went to (they went to different ones because you are able to choose based on what your interests and the specialties of each are). There was a bridge that led us into the stone town in search of a pharmacy for burn gel where Jitka explained what my deal was and what we were in search of - success! I saw the cinema, church, specialty stores and then we hit the market before heading back to the village. Anna and Pavel were waiting for us with picture set out and we looked through many before sitting down to a traditional Czech dinner - pork, sauerkraut and potatoes (see what I mean?) After dinner the 5 of us took a walk through "town". It was absolutely perfect outside - starting to cool off and I loved getting a feel for just how close everything is and how centered and simple. Its a world where you know every car that drives by: very far from what I am used to. We first walked to the cemetery where Adolf, his parents and recently his wife (Jitka's Bubi) were all buried. The grave was still fresh and her name had not yet been inscribed. The flys and bugs were buzzing around us so after tending to the grave (which I must admit, I had never done or seen done before), we left the somber site, passed a huge thatched roof and fields of rye. Really it was like a country scene from a movie. We walked up the hill to 150 cows (they did not moo and made fabulous photos), saw the new bus stop and then walked through the tall grass and across the stream to the church where Anna's parents are buried. We headed down the hill passing the school where the parents were classmates and first met and the lone pub which Pavel is a fan of. I will forever associate Czech beer with chocolate ice cream because that is what I have had on more that one occasion :) The dad told me that it is good to eat so much so that when the next famine comes the fat people will be okay but the skinny people might not survive - so unlike American thinking! He also told me that he wants me to go home heavier so that my parents know that they took good care of me while I was on the road - he really cracks me up. Last night I also saw the two pigs that live out back for the short term. We sat outside for a bit in the garden ...it is peaceful and colorful and so beautiful out there. I asked about the plum brandy Bubi had written about and Pavel went to open a bottle. The next thing I knew 5 shots were being poured and we were saying nazdravi = cheers! I am surrounded by people I have only known a few days but who I love and make me feel so happy and looked after. Roots are amazing things!
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